Holborn.
The Ship Tavern
Adress: 12 Gate Street
Operator: Independent
Open:
11:00 - 23:00 Sunday-Wednesday
11:00 - 00:00 Thursday-Saturday
Map: Holborn Crawl
Homepage
Underground: Holborn (1min)
Piccadilly
Central
About the pub:
Established as a pub in 1549, The Ship Tavern boasts a fascinating history intertwined with mystery, involving English Royalty, the Masons, and the Clergy.
In the bygone era surrounding The Ship in Holborn, the area was notorious for its seedy gambling establishments and various shady, mostly illegal businesses.
The pub likely originated to quench the thirst of farm laborers working in the nearby Lincolns Inn Fields. The fields, a site of 16th-century executions, drew crowds, providing The Ship with increased patronage after each grisly death sentence.
During the 16th Century, The River Fleet, once running through Holborn, brought the murky waters of the Thames closer to the area, likely supporting shipyards or dockyards near the pub. Rumours suggest The Ship’s involvement in smuggling and piracy, explaining its original name, The Ship Tavern.
Over the years, visitors have mistakenly referred to the pub as The Ship Inn or The Ship Pub, but historical consensus affirms its name as The Ship Tavern.
In King Edward the Sixth’s reign, The Ship served as an “underground” church for London’s hidden Catholics. Banned Catholic Priests conducted Mass from the pulpit, cleverly disguised as the bar, while spotters signaled the presence of the King’s officials, prompting a transformation into rowdy pub clientele.
The Ship Tavern’s connections also extend to the secretive society of The Freemasons. Consecrated as a Masonic Lodge in 1736, it remained a meeting house for the local chapter of the clandestine order.
Throughout the centuries, notable figures frequented The Ship, adding to its storied past. Don’t miss the history board near the front entrance, chronicling the intriguing tales that have unfolded within these walls.
During the short reign of King Edward the Sixth the Ship Pub in Holborn was utilised by the English Catholic community as an “underground” church of sorts. Edwards father, Henry the Eight, had already publically outlawed Catholicism in 1533, meaning loads of practicing Catholics were high and dry when it came to supporting their beliefs. And so it was that instead of heading to the Ship Tavern to simply drink ale and engage in witty banter, many of Londons hidden Catholics sought out the pub in order to receive Mass given out by some of the aforementioned banned Catholic Priests, who’d made The Ship Tavern their unofficial faith base.
In a well organised ministry, specialist spotters were employed about the area armed with secret signals to warn the pubs worshippers when any of the Kings officials were spotted in the area. When the signal made it back to The Ship the parishioners would simply start drinking their mead or ale and transform into simple rowdy pub clientele. Meanwhile the priest, who’d been manning the pulpit – which was in fact the bar of the pub – secreted themselves away in the various hidey holes built within the pubs walls and cellar to await the passing of the kings men.
The religious activities involving The Ship were not the establishments only past secretive connections. The closely guarded society of The Freemasons – for a time operated out of the Ship Tavern also. The building was consecrated as a Masonic Lodge in in 1736 and for many years remained a London institution and meeting house for the local chapter of the clandestine order. Masons are renowned for being evasive and secretive to say the least, and that certainly fits in with the atmospheric past of this building and the business that was housed within.
There have been a number of notable famous (or infamous) regulars to the pub over the centuries also so be sure not to miss the history board posted by the front entrance to the pub.
Princess Louise
Adress: 208 High Holborn
Operator: Sam Smith
Open:
12:00 - 23:00 Monday-Sunday
Map: Holborn Crawl
Underground: Holborn (2min)
Piccadilly
Central
About the pub:
One of the great historic pubs of London, famous for its remarkable interior. The outside is a rather modest, slightly Italianate design of 1872 but the interior was completely remodelled in 1891 by the otherwise unknown Arthur Chitty. There is a most sumptuous display of tiling and mirrors which give the building exactly the sense of fantasy and gaiety its owners and architect must have wanted. The tiles are by W. B. Simpson & Sons and the glass is signed R. Morris and Son. See how the counter (with its island bar back) projects out into the bar so that staff could reach the customers easily.
The ground floor layout is like it was in Victorian times with a series of seven drinking spaces separated by mahogany partitions with decorative etched glass panels abutting the large U-shaped bar counter. However, in 2008 Samuel Smiths carried out an expensive refurbishment returning the lost screenwork that form the corridors down the left and right hand side, two small snugs on each side of the pub, and small separate bars at the front, rear left and rear right.
The layout of many small drinking compartments is a style also seen at the Prince Alfred, Maida Vale, London W9 , the best example, Argyll Arms, Soho, London W1 and Salisbury, Covent Garden, London WC1. The original partitions at the Princess Louise had certainly disappeared by the late 1960s, and maybe a long time before that to leave an open plan pub around the original island bar counter.
The splendid island bar-back fitting is in two parts and is also the original mahogany one by W H Lascelles and Co.
It is decorated with etched and frosted panels, an archway through the centre of the main fitting, which has lost all its lower shelving to fridges and is topped with a working four-sided clock.; a smaller fitting abutting a dumb waiter has some tiled panels as well as mirrors.
The exterior walls of the whole room has one of the finest displays of decorative tiling and gilded & etched mirrors anywhere, although there is also some very fine work at the Viaduct Tavern, Smithfield, London EC1; not far away. There is a tiled dado mainly of diagonally laid tiles and above it is a series of wide colourful tiled panels and gilded & etched mirrors alternating.
Above this is a polychrome tile frieze decorated with urns and swags in deep relief. The floors of the two corridors and the entrance lobbies have mosaic floors. Highly ornate patterned ceiling is held up by a series of Corinthian columns with decorative capitals. The front space has double doors with deep etched panels from both lobbies, the counter front has decorative brackets but the fixed seating is more modern.
In the rear left bar, which has a modern lino tiled floor laid diagonally, you will see some more of the alternating tiled panels and mirror panels above a timber dado and topped with a polychrome tile frieze of urns and swags in deep relief. Some old fixed seating, two splendid colourful stained glass windows by W H Lascelles and Co. with titles of ‘Music’ and ‘Drama’ and three small stained and leaded panels above of mainly fruit. There is a Victorian fireplace with a fine wood surround featuring tiled panels (but a modern interior) with a large gilded and etched mirror above and lit by a skylight with yellow coloured pattern glass panels (probably modern). From the rear left room go down the staircase which has tiling on the walls and you will find another wonderful coloured stained glass window entitled ‘Painting’.
The rear right small room has more of the alternating tiled panels and mirror panels above a timber dado and topped with a polychrome tile frieze of urns and swags in deep relief, a good wood surround fireplace with decorative brackets holding up the mantelshelf and a mirror above, but the fixed seating is modern. The bar counter in this room was shortened and changed from one that was straight and finished at the rear wall to the present curved counter created by Samuel Smiths in 2008. Before you leave, gentlemen, have a pee(k) at the loos - a piece of lavatorial elegance exceeded only by those at the Philharmonic in Liverpool! It has floor to ceiling tiling, a (modern) tiled floor and three massive urinals by J Taylor & Sons Ltd.
Upstairs is a bar that may be closed at times e.g. opens at 6pm Sat. It has a bar counter and bar back fitting that are Samuels Smiths replacements but are in a slightly different position to the previous ones. Look behind the servery and you will see some Victorian tiling on a passage and the room has a good cornice.
Princess Louise (1848-1939) was the fourth daughter of Queen Victoria. Described by her mother as 'difficile', she led a racy life-style. There were several affairs with men from the world of art which was Louise's other great interest. Notoriously her mentor in sculpture, Sir Joseph Boehm died in her arms in 1890. She sculpted a statue of Queen Victoria which stands in the gardens of Kensington Palace. She was cremated at Golders Green Cemetery, thus becoming the first royal not to be buried.
The Old Red Lion
Adress: 72 High Holborn
Operator: Green King
Open:
12:00 - 00:00 Monday-Friday
16:00 - 00:00 Saturday
Closed Sundays
Map: Holborn Crawl
Underground: Holborn (4min)
Piccadilly
Central
About the pub:
A traditional, main-street, corner pub serving mainly office and legal weekday community. Clean and comfortable surroundings, but with no tables downstairs you need to grab a bar stool or stand. Tables and chairs upstairs in Cromwell Bar (plaque on wall outside claims that in 1658 cellars hid body of Oliver Cromwell).
Main bar is long and narrow, with bar to one side: carved, dark wood, mirrored bar back; bare floorboards; polished wood ledges around walls with perimeter stools for drinkers; dark wood panelling; dark wood framed windows with tinted and stained glass.
Old Nick
Adress: 20-22 Sandland Streets
Operator: Hall & Woodhouse
Open:
11:00 - 22:00 Monday
11:00 - 23:00 Tuesday-Friday
Closed Saturday & Sundays
Underground: Holborn (4min)
Piccadilly
Central
About the pub:
A spacious and smartly presented back street pub on street level. Traditional, Victorian-style décor (albeit not original) – lots of dark wood panelling; wooden floor; dark red and cream paintwork; embossed walls; etched-effect and mirrored glass; framed pictures with local and legal themes; chandeliers.
An open-plan, island bar is surrounded by partitioned areas and some intimate, cosy booths to one side with a quiet, separated area at back where music is hardly audible, otherwise recorded music throughout. Assorted wood tables, chairs and benches, some upholstered. In 2021 a work station with stools and ample plug in points was created to the right on entering.
The name alludes to the pub being reputedly on site of an old police station, some framed shackles have been found in the cellar. TV screens with FreeView channels. Full disabled facilities. Tube – Holborn, Chancery Lane. Formerly The Three Cups run by Young's, the current design and furnishings were installed by Hall and Woodhouse when they took over. Available for hire on selected weekends.
Dolphin Tavern
Adress: 44 Red Lion Street
Operator: Independent
Open:
17:00 - 23:00 Monday
16:00 - 23:00 Tuesday-Friday
Closed Saturday & Sundays
Map: Holborn Crawl
Underground: Holborn (4min)
Piccadilly
Central
About the pub:
A small, wedge-shaped pub with a wooden bar and seating in booths down one side of the pub and bar stools down another. This, coupled with the paraphernalia around the walls, gives a very cosy feel. It is famous for its stopped clock (a German zeppelin dropped a bomb on the pub in 1915 killing 3 men and stopping the clock).
The food is traditional and home-made with main meals served 12.00 - 14.30, at other times snacks such as nachos and sausages are available until around 22.00. Reported as "free of tie" in the summer of 2016 and plans to put in a fourth pump to compliment the three they already have. Toilets only accessible by steep stairs.
